Beauté, diversité, liberté

Norbert Möller for Passion, a magazine from Berliner Druck

"Beauty" – the cover topic of the 11/2022 edition of Passion magazine inspired Norbert to consider the changes the concept of beauty has undergone. The "ideal" 90-60-90 figure is a thing of the past; nowadays beauty is more personal, natural and diverse than ever before!

It all started with Dove. Suddenly, instead of fashion models with 90-60-90 measurements, there were ordinary, normal-sized people dancing around in front of the camera. With a love handle here, some freckles and age spots there, and even a hint of cellulite. When the Dove "True Beauty" campaign came out in 2004, these images triggered lively discussions that sometimes veered toward sheer horror. Do we have to look at this? Is this beautiful?

A good 15 years later, we've come a long way. Everything can be beautiful. Long live diversity. The dictates of beauty are now obsolete; the concept of beauty has been broadened and lost its exclusivity. In fact, this may be the first time in modern times that beauty no longer just excludes, but is integrative, i.e. it includes the chubbies, the wrinkled, and the cellulite-challenged, too.

We are currently experiencing the birth of diversity – the moment of greatest possible freedom for all. Beauty for all. Fueled by more and more brands that are celebrating diversity in big and loud ways. Leading the way is Rihanna, with her gender-neutral brand Fenty, founded in 2017. When the brand was launched, it was absolutely groundbreaking to offer 40 different shades of make-up, from very light to very dark, so that truly everyone could find their skin color. So groundbreaking, in fact, that Time magazine named Fenty one of the top 25 investments of the year 2017 – alongside Tesla and the latest iPhone. In the meantime, MAC, L’Oreal, and many other cosmetics brands have long begun advertising extensive, inclusive color palettes. By the way, the fact that everything is different at Fenty can also be seen in its logo, where the turned-around N dances to its own rhythm.

The morphing Logo of the Beauty Brand We are fluide from Brooklyn

That means the brand promise of celebrating diversity has even changed the design of beauty products. More angles, more corners – or fluidly distorted like the logo of We Are Fluide from Brooklyn. The beauty brand not only has its queer target group in its name, it also visualizes it graphically through its morphing logo. Of course, it goes without saying that the inclusive products for all genders and skin types are also vegan and free from animal testing and paraben. But even conformist brands like Gillette are jumping on the bandwagon. For example, Gillette's women's shaving ads no longer feature only interchangeably boring Next Top Model candidates, but real women with supposed flaws. Scarred skin and extra pounds are suddenly becoming highly coveted unique selling points for today's models – a conversation starter that can be spun into interesting stories and exciting content. So that even self-perfectionist influencers like Caro Daur appear time and again without makeup, with their hair standing on end. Body positivity at the highest level. Because nowadays, fewer and fewer people want to be simply beautiful-equals-perfect-equals-boring.

Or wait a minute. Maybe you just shouldn't be too glossy anymore – at least not if you're a brand that adorns itself with models. Otherwise, a shitstorm might blow up on you, triggering a body-shaming tsunami, and the cancel culture will punish your brand. Today more than ever, brands are well advised to take a stand by communicating clearly and demonstrating empathy.

Fenty Beauty by Rihanna, Gloss Bomb Cream, Lipgloss

The Douglas brand recognized this trend early on and responded to it by fundamentally redesigning its identity – based on the principle that nothing is more beautiful than uniqueness. And each of us is unique, after all, so that's basically the greatest common denominator. Consequently, Douglas encourages consumers to be self-confident, boosting their boldness and inner strength, and empowers customers to believe in their own ability to shape their look according to their individual imagination. To that end, Douglas even revamped its own appearance. The design team at Peter Schmidt Group changed the logo so radically that the first two intertwined letters can be read as the English word "Do." The ball is now in the consumer's court. The power over beauty is no longer in the hands of the beauty industry, it is up to each and every one of us. Relinquishing this power requires courage on the part of beauty brands.

They now find themselves faced with a compelling question: How much power can I put into empowerment? Won't beauty products eventually become obsolete if customers feel good about their own bodies?

The current trend toward self-optimization shows that this fear is unfounded. A few fillers for sculpted contours, some Botox to look younger, a vampire lift for that perfect glow – when it comes to feeling beautiful and projecting one's individual idea of beauty to the world, anything is possible and everything is allowed. Today, true beauty is not only the freedom to accept yourself as you are, but also the freedom to shape yourself according to your own ideas. There's more than one way to be beautiful. Beauty is multi-faceted – in a word, diverse.

The author